On the Trail of Old JulesA road trip through the Sandhills in search of a Nebraska legend. Story by Alan J. Bartels Photography by Alan J. Bartels and Bobbi and Steve Olson |
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Click on the above image for a slide show of more images. For a complete list of Mari's works or information on joining the Mari Sandoz Heritage Society, contact: www.marisandoz.org For more information on Mari Sandoz see Chadron State College's website www.csc.edu/Sandoz For more information about Deer Meadows Outfitters, see their website at www.deermeadowsoutfitters.com |
MARI SANDOZ IS SYNONYMOUS with Nebraska and more specifically with the Sandhills. The Sheridan County-born writer held a capacity for accurately capturing the essence of Sandhills life, a flair for revealing its history and a passion for the region that burned hotter than blowout sand at noon on the fourth of July. By visiting some of the places mentioned in the biography of her father Old Jules, I hoped to garner an accurate picture of the Sandhills that she (and those she wrote about) knew.
We started at Ellsworth, former headquarters of the expansive Spade Ranch. The Spade figured prominently in the book that made her famous and her father Jules Sandoz infamous.
What Ellsworth lacks in amenities it makes up for with tranquility – that
is, until the next coal train thunders through. But considering the western
setting, the shrill whistle and chugging locomotive seem so appropriate.
Also lending itself to Ellsworth’s western mood is Morgan’s Cowpoke
Haven. The rustic shop has been there since 1898 when it began as the Spade
Ranch Store. Mari (then Marie) would wait there among the cowboys for the arrival
of the mail wagon. Morgan’s still serves cowboys, postal patrons and tourists
today.
A rack of shiny spurs, bits and other equine accessories sits adjacent to a
coffee pot and a soda cooler. Six bar stools and a counter supported by old
wooden wagon wheels form the town’s local cafe. A sign tells customers
to help themselves, asking only that they close the refrigerator door when finished.
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| Alan's route is in red. |
Western memorabilia adorns the walls, including Native American items and rare
historical objects. “This place could be considered a museum,” said
owner Wade Morgan. He’s extremely proud of his collection. In addition
to the saddles, cowboy boots and work clothing, the Haven serves as the only
sporting goods store for miles. Wade has a great selection of firearms including
antique weaponry.
Old Jules appreciated a good gun, was diligent about keeping his firearms clean
and was a crack shot. His skill was legendary, and for this reason hostile cattle
barons allowed him a wide berth. He probably wouldn’t mind that Wade has
an original document signed by him hanging prominently above one of his gun
racks.
Near the front counter there is a large selection of Mari Sandoz books. Wade
says they sell well. “A lot of people come here to connect with what Mari
Sandoz wrote about, it’s good for business,” he said.
I had arranged for a tour of the Spade Ranch and gave Stephanie Graham a call
as we left the store. She gave me directions and believe it or not, we got lost
in a town of 20 people. After a follow-up call, we found her house. Just as
Old Jules was known for constantly having guests, Stephanie invited us in.
Her grandfather Lawrence Bixby worked on the Spade as a teenager, and legend
says that at the youthful age of 13 he announced he would someday own it, which
he eventually did. The ranch remains in the family today.
Stephanie is a knowledgeable historian of the Spade and the Sandhills and knows
a lot of Mari Sandoz’s writing as well. She showed me a prized possession,
a first-edition copy of Old Jules that Sandoz signed to her husband’s
grandmother.
It reads: “For Hazel Graham – because she is one of my country –
sincerely – Mari Sandoz.”
Seeing the book made me envious. I also have a first-edition copy of the book
but it is not signed and never will be – Mari died in 1966.
We spent hours speaking with Stephanie about the Old West and about quarrels
between cattlemen, settlers and Jules Sandoz. We toured the tiny schoolhouse
she has restored. She is such a wealth of information it was difficult to leave.
We spent so much time visiting that we had to postpone the ranch tour for another
day.